This is time for Men Fashion Weeks SS2018. Here’s below the calendar with upcoming events:
- London, LFWM, June 9-12, 2017;
- Florene, Pitti Uomo, June 13-16, 2017;
- Milan, MFWM, June 17-20, 2017;
- Paris, PFWM, June 21-25, 2017;
- New York City, NYCFW, July 10-13, 2017.
This is my first post entirely focused on men fashion footwear. I think this website must regard footwear both for men and women, according to my overall interest in this sector.
During those of the above listed dates just ended some fashion designers showed new and innovative concepts of footwear for men. Engineering Fashion Industry (not only footwear) now boasts Virgil Abloh who put LED on coats during Pitti Uomo catwalk (theme: immigration from Ghana).
Innovation in footwear arrived in PFWM thanks to the always-up-to-date brand Salvatore Ferragamo which “inhaled” the stage. The new SF Footwear Design Director, Paul Andrew, “brings finesse to feet” (Vogue). Already in the last NYFW he announced the new line of innovative sneakers for men to be showed during PFWM 2017. The new collection Salvatore Ferragamo Men SS2018 by Mr. Andrew so shown in Paris titled him as the “Accessory Designer of the Year” (CFDA’s awards). This British-born and New York-based designer provides a new concept of “classic/sport men shoes”. He declared to the Vogue journalist Suzy Menkes:
“We totally revolutionised the measurements and the fit with almost every shoe that is in the collection, changing the length of the arch and the volume of the toe box. And one of the most important things was that I added to every single shoe a memory foam, so that it actually cups around the ball of your foot.”
First SS2018 footwear trend. The new shoes by Mr. Andrew have got vivid colors, traditional funnel heels and shiny leather straps. The very innovative SF item in heels regards the inspiration to the same process as for car finish (e.d. super-matte-black effect borrowed from the surface treatment of Mercedes cars). Moreover, modern SF man can wear tech-knit sneakers and malleable ankle boots, as inspired to Japanese geishas. Vogue already nominated him as the “21st-century’s king of shoes”.
Second SS2018 footwear trend. In addition to Salvatore Ferragamo, many shoe designers, above all Giuseppe Zanotti, welcome the huge advantages by 3D printing to leather shoes for their Men Footwear SS2018 Collections. In other words, 3D printed leather (e.g. crocodile pattern) will be one of the best SS2018 trends, men!
Third SS2018 footwear trend. According to Browns’ menswear buyer Lee Goldup, sneakers will still be another footwear trend in Summer Spring 2018. In particularly, the so-called “slip-on socks” updates the current concept of “sneakers” even for men. This trend is already on the ways of Milan thanks to some IT-boys, like GCDS and Marcelo Burlon’s County of Milan.
Fourth SS2018 footwear trend. Bicolor is the keyword. Church’s, Bikkembergs, Tod’s and Emporio Armani are just some examples suggesting this trend on their Pitti Uomo runways. If possible, combined with high-fine leather both for elegant and sport shoes.
Fifth SS2018 footwear trend. Mocassins. Yes, they’re back once again! This classy and comfortable evergreen item in Men Fashion will walk streets again next sunny season. This is what brands like Tod’s (ofc!) and Jimmy Choo, above all, promote next year. Personally I like this chic and not-easy-to-fit men shoe a lot, both for men and for women. Mocassins can give a classy touch to any outfit.
Emerging Brands. SS2018 runways at Pitti Uomo and MFWM introduced some new interesting shoe designers. Many of them focused on sport men with an high-tech outfit. To me some of the most promising ones are the following:
- Filippo Fiora and Filippo Cirulli – working for Edhèn Milano and now lunching their own brand called “3F” (“the threef”) – suggested “brightly hued monk strap loafers” characterised by sleeker and more elongated shapes (FootwearNews.com). These remind me to jazz Époque adding the trending colors for stylish dandy. Nevertheless the signature of these emerging shoe designers is the Brera loafer, between Italian and English styles.
- Marcelo Burlon Men Footwear line fully inspires to sporty chic ’90s skaters shoes/slippers as well as neoprene sneaker boots.
- Diego Vanassibara designs men footwear characterised by brogues and sneakers layered with apron-style overlays and mosaics. To the Mini runway at Pitti Uomo he provided elegant men shoes with diamond-shape motif and laster-cut perforations. Keep in mind his name because he’s going to collaborate with Yoox for his unisex collection at PFWM in September.
- VFTS suggests a new concept of sneakers as inspired to architecture and stylish streetstyle. The innovation of this brand regards the use of new materials: calf leather and raw-edged suede, with strong geometric shapes, hand-painted edges, shock absorbers and a neoprene inner sock.
Conclusion. Spring Summer 2018 is going to be a season of exaggerate fashion footwear both for men and for women. Extremes, colors, contrast and surprise are the coming keywords. Nature and technology; classic and sporty; beauty and performance; roughness and luster. “Externally shoes are made out of soft suede and a classic shape, while the inside features technical high-performance meshes” in the name of techno-futurism. (FotoShoeMagazine.com)
Just few deserved words about.
It seems Angels are going to be quite glamour this year! Laura Biagiotti left us just last month. Now it’s the turn of Carla Fendi (1933), the fourth in the line of five sisters leading the stylish Fendi Maison. Carla was the honorable chair of this brand (after 2001 acquisition of the brand by LVMH, France) as well as founder of Fondazione Carla Fendi (2007) to support arts and social commitments. Thanks to her efforts in public relations, particularly with US market, the “double-f” succeeded worldwide. Her friendship with Karl Lagerfeld signed the discovery of this talented and glamorous fashion designer. She left a big “glamorous” heritage to fashion industry and arts.